Save your machinima masterpieces for posterity.
Machinima ( [Hack #63] ) once simply demos, created and played back entirely inside a game engine, such as the original Quake. An entire miniature Hollywood formed around using 3D games with no external editing of any kind. Things are different now. Machinima has grown up from its roots. Once a machinima creator has had his first taste of Adobe After Effects, it’s hard to lure him back to pure Quake editing. More importantly, many games don’t have the facilities to create machinima movies the old-fashioned way—even powerful, cool games such as Halo. Gamers had to extend their technology and learn how to capture normal video from games.
Want to make your own Warthog Jump? If you already know how to film your machinima ( [Hack #65] ), you need to record your footage. Keep reading.
Films such as Red vs Blue are actually recordings of what the creators saw on their screens straight into some video format. You could do this by pointing a camera at the screen, adjusting the refresh rate of your monitor appropriately, and sitting there. Thankfully, there’s a better approach: TV-Out.
Nearly all video cards these days have some form of TV-Out capability. They’re mostly pretty good, too. ATI used to have the edge, and possibly still does, but as DVD playback has increased in importance, NVidia has improved their output quality markedly.
The solution is simple. Take your TV-Out, attach it to some form of video-recording device, and record the results. Here’s the step-by-step process:
Enable your TV-Out. This usually means fiddling with the control panel of your particular video card’s drivers. See your card’s manual for details.
Connect an S-Video or composite video lead to your video card (the socket’s normally next to the VGA Out) and connect the other end to a DV camcorder or a PC with some kind of video capture capability. You don’t need much here; a TV capture card, such as a Hauppage card, plus a fast hard drive will do the trick, particularly if the capture card can do MPEG-2 encoding.
Start the capture device. You’re going to chew up lots of hard-drive space if you’re recording to PC, so make sure you have at least a few gigs free.
Play your game. If you’re recording a networked session ( [Hack #65] ), remember that the PC that’s connected to the capture device is effectively your camera. Turn off the HUD graphics for the best effect. See your game’s manual for screenshot options.
By now, a bunch of experienced recorders have shouted “FRAPS!”, to which I respond, “Bless you.”
FRAPS (http://www.fraps.com/) is a program that allows you to capture video directly from an OpenGL or DirectX stream, much like having a capture station on a single computer. The quality of the video you can capture is arguably higher frame for frame than TV-Out-captured video, but it requires a very powerful computer to capture FRAPS video at anything like real time. To capture 25-fps (frames per second) video, I recommend a RAID array and a CPU speed at least 2 GHz higher than the minimum your game requires, plus about half a gig of spare memory. FRAPS is great for rough captures, but for good-quality video, it currently can’t beat TV-Out for quality.
If you’re lucky enough to have access to very expensive video-editing gear, some high-end video cards now support component video output. This is a much higher-quality output signal, but only $5,000 plus video-editing setups can provide component video inputs at the moment. However, if you have this equipment, you’re laughing: this is the same setup LucasArts used to use to capture game footage for trailers.
For more information on capturing game video, see Machinima.com’s “Capturing Game Video” series (http://www.machinima.com/displayarticle2.php?article=149). It deals with virtually everything you need to know, in more detail than I can possibly cover here.