Hardware hacks for your favorite portable console.
What if you have an older-model Game Boy Advance and want backlighting? Suppose you have a newer Game Boy and miss the chunky bass sound of the older monochrome Game Boys. You’re not stuck buying a newer or older machine; there are reasonably straightforward hardware modifications you can do to fix both problems.
First, let’s be clear: if you decide to modify your Game Boy Advance (GBA) with a frontlight at this stage in the GBA’s life, you’re hardcore. When Nintendo saw the immense popularity of the AfterBurner frontlight add-on in 2002, they introduced the Game Boy Advance SP, which features frontlighting of its own.
You’re also hardcore because there’s a definite failure rate when it comes to the tricky frontlight installation. An acquaintance ruined more than one GBA before getting it right! It’s also becoming difficult to find the AfterBurner kit because its creators at Triton Labs (http://www.tritonlabs.com/) have discontinued it in favor of composing music instead.
If all this doesn’t put you off, it’s still a challenging and interesting project.
Start by reading the Triton Labs FAQ (http://www.tritonlabs.com/?page=faq#11) to understand the requirements. You will need:
An AfterBurner kit. This comes with the light guide and source, electrical wire, and a dimmer switch you can choose to install or not. The dimmer switch can be a little unreliable if installed badly.
A soldering iron, solder, and wire strippers
A Dremel drill. You’ll need to remove some of the plastic under the screen for the light to fit.
A can of compressed air. While you have the screen exposed, it may attract specks of dust. They will stay there forever after you reseal your GBA—not good.
Fortunately, the AfterBurner kit itself comes with very good instructions. It’s worth running through the steps nonetheless:
Open your GBA by removing the special screws from the back of the system. Multiple sources recommend using a 1/16-inch flathead screwdriver. When unscrewed, you can separate the screen from the GBA’s cover; be very careful here, because the two may be stuck together.
Make sure that all dust is out of the way before you mount the antireflective film to the GBA’s LCD screen. This is one of the trickiest parts of the entire operation; the film is difficult to apply without trapping air bubbles in the film and extremely tricky to reposition when you’ve placed it. Be careful!
Solder wires from the light guide to two points on the GBA specified in the AfterBurner instruction manual. Carefully reassemble everything, including the new light guide and light source. Use the compressed air to blow all specks of dust out of the screen area before replacing the front cover.
Presto. You should have a working frontlight for your previously vanilla GBA!
The Triton Labs site says:
You can expect to spend at least a half hour to an hour to do the job right, possibly more if you’ve never done anything like this. If you are completely inexperienced in electronics, you should consider going with a professional installer.
The frontlight definitely affects battery life, just as it does with the Game Boy Advance SP. Conservative estimates vary, but expect a reduction of at least 30% in battery life after installing a frontlight. Fortunately, the AfterBurner doesn’t take power in any underhanded manner; the GBA is under the impression it’s powering an external wormlight (an adjustable light that attaches to it). You’ll see no power-related glitches if you’ve installed the device properly.
Although this is a specialized mod, it’s pretty neat. The Game Boy is becoming increasingly popular as a machine with homebrew music-creation software ( [Hack #22] ). One of the limitations of creating sound on a GB is that the original, monochrome Game Boy produces better sound than any other version of the hardware. The Game Boy Color (GBC), an otherwise excellent candidate, has poor bass output and produces extra noise by the time the audio reaches the headphone socket.
The resourceful Timothy “Trash80” Lamb decided to open up the GBC to see what he could do. He produced an ingenious method (http://www.littlesounddj.com/awkiawki/index.cgi/Prosound/) of coaxing sound out of the GBC more directly without the garbling that happens through the current headphone socket. Your GBC can now also be a potent sonic weapon.
What do you need?
A soldering iron, wire strippers, and solder.
A Dremel or other type of drill. You’ll need to cut a small hole in the Game Boy Color’s plastic case
An audio lead with a normal male 3.5mm headphone jack on one end. It doesn’t matter what’s on the other end; you’ll cut it off.
Here’s Lamb’s procedure, step by step:
Open the back of your Game Boy Color by undoing the screws holding it in place. As with opening up the GBA, you’ll encounter problems, because the screws are custom-made. Try the same 1/16-inch flathead screwdriver suggested earlier. If that fails, you can buy a Tri-Wing Screwdriver, specifically designed to open this type of screw, from online retailers such as ConsolePlus (http://www.consoleplus.co.uk/) in the United Kingdom and Hong Kong’s ever reliable Play-Asia (http://www.play-asia.com/).
The volume potentiometer is easy to find: it includes five pins and connects to the normal headphone socket. Cut off the other end of your 3.5mm headphone jack cable and strip the wires as necessary. Solder the two audio wires into pin 2 (left) and pin 3 (right). This bypasses whatever junk causes signal degradation on the normal headphone socket.
Unscrew the actual circuit board and turn it, looking for the connection labeled “4” under the headphone jack. Solder the last remaining lead, the audio ground, into that connection. Finally, make a small hole at the base of the GBC unit, just large enough for the audio lead, and close the GBC again. Congratulations, your Game Boy Color is now a bass monster.
Please note that this mod will work only for direct sound output, not for headphone output. This is good for recording to your PC when you’re done, but not so good for listening on the move. This is a minor issue compared to the extra bass boom it produces, however.