Start exploring at Edinburgh Castle, the city’s central landmark. The Stone of Destiny and Scotland’s crown jewels are displayed in the 15th- century palace. From the Argyle Battery there’s a fine view of the city. A block south of the Royal Mile, the treasures of the National Museum of Scotland include Highland silver, Iron Age jewellery, Pictish symbol stones, a Viking grave, a Roman treasure hoard and a huge Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton. The White Horse Oyster Bar, where the oldest inn on the Royal Mile stood, is a great spot for a lunch break.

At the bottom of the Royal Mile, take a tour of the Palace of Holyroodhouse to discover royal treasures and portraits in the Throne Room, State Apartments and Queen’s Gallery. A five-minute bus ride (hop off at St Andrew’s House) takes you to Calton Hill, where the view from Nelson Monument encompasses the Firth of Forth and Fife across the water.

Enjoy a sunset view and admire the frivolous National Monument before descending the steps to Royal Terrace, where you can dine at Paul Kitchin’s award-winning restaurant 21212. After dinner, head to The Stand comedy club on York Place for some late-night laughs. Choose your seats wisely – those in the front row are sure to be picked on.

St Giles’ Cathedral is an unmistakable landmark from which to start a second day of discovery in Scotland’s fine capital. It’s downhill all the way to the Scottish National Gallery, where keynotes include Landseer’s Monarch of the Glen and Raeburn’s Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch. Hop on the Gallery Bus to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art where bronze sculptures adorn the grounds. Follow the Water of Leith Walkway to Stockbridge, which offers up a plethora of pubs and eateries.

It’s a short walk to the Royal Botanic Garden, a vast oasis of lawns, ponds, rhododendron walks and rock gardens. The palatial Victorian Palm Houses offer a refuge when weather is less than perfect.

St Andrew Square, in the heart of the New Town, is home to Dishoom, which serves up superb, authentic Parsi Indian dishes alongside artisan Scottish ales. Its basement bar, the Permit Room, has a great cocktail list and stays open until late. Alternatively, take a stroll along George Street to The Dome. A favourite among Edinburgh’s high-flyers, its Graeco-Roman façade and lavish interior make it a magnificent setting for after-dinner drinks. The street is lined by clubs and bars, should you wish to continue your evening into the wee hours.